San Antonio Mission Trail, Texas

The Mission Trail in San Antonio consists of the five early missions that have since been swallowed up by the city. Some of the old churches are in better shape than others, and some were more extensive in the first place. Blue Eyes and I spent a Sunday morning wandering from one to the other, checking out the ruins, peeking in the chapels and standing in awe of the architectural feats accomplished during the 1700’s in the middle-of-nowhere Texas.

The Alamo is one of the original San Antonio missions, it is by far the most famous due to the terrible loss the Texans suffered at the hands of the Imperial Mexican army. (Confession: I actually had no idea that the Texans lost at the Alamo….I hope I can still be friends with those of you from Texas. And, to be fair, you probably didn’t know that Utah was founded by religious refugees running from government-issued extermination orders in the Midwest. So, state history lessons for everyone.)San Antonio - The Alamo

Mission Concepcion

After The Alamo with it’s memorial flowers and altars and hundreds of people milling about, I was surprised that Mission Concepcion was so different. We arrived just as Mass was getting out, and seeing families chatting and kids running around the lawns seemed so…normal. This building in old and weathered, and I was both surprised and delighted that–despite it’s National Monument status–it is also just a regular cathedral for the devout people nearby.

San Antonio - Mission Concepcion

Mission San Jose

Called the “Queen of the Missions” this cathedral was by far my favorite. I think it is the largest, and has these amazing arched extensions around the main church with gardens and flowers all over.

San Antonio - Mission San Jose

I mean, really. How can you not be totally charmed by this place!?

San Antonio - Mission San Jose

Mass was happening while we were visiting, so we didn’t poke our heads inside at all, but we wandered around for almost an hour, admiring the stonework and the sheer size of the building, and me patiently(ish) waiting for the crowds to clear a bit so I could get the photos I wanted.

San Antonio - Mission San Jose

Mission San Juan

Mission San Juan (which I don’t have any photos of), was the simplest building, whitewashed and without much decoration. We poked around the dark little museum and circled the grounds, but services were taking place in the church and we didn’t want to disturb, so off we went to the final mission.

Mission Espada

The oldest of the East Texas missions, the Espada church looks like it’s abandoned, but there is a small monastery and retreat attached where people continue to live, study, and pray.  The rest of the grounds are in ruins, with stones and bricks removed for decades for other building projects. Now it’s mostly just the outlines of the walls and foundations.

San Antonio - Mission Espada

However, the chapel was empty so we were able to go in and sit for a little while, admiring the faith and dedication of these believers from hundreds of years ago, and to appreciate the service and life-work of the priests and monks who continue to run the missions in San Antonio.

San Antonio - Mission Espada

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San Antonio, Texas

San Antonio Postcard

San Antonio Riverwalk

Last month I went to San Antonio for a work conference and managed to squeeze in plenty of wandering. Blue Eyes lived in Houston for a few years and fell in-love with Texas, so he was pretty stoked to join me for the weekend after my conference and explore a little. We stayed right on the Riverwalk a loop of the San Antonio River that is lined with shops and restaurants and bars.

San Antonio - Riverwalk

I wandered the entire loop several times, taking photos and enjoying the delightful weather.

San Antonio - Riverwalk

The restaurants have all appropriated part of the not-entirely-huge sidewalks outside their space, and in the evenings it was crowded with people and sounds and delicious smells of Mexican food and BBQ (not usually together, thank heavens).

San Antonio - Riverwalk

I have a thing for these painted tiles, they were inset in everything and I just love them!

San Antonio - Riverwalk

Bridges every so often let you criss-cross the river, darting back and forth for the best Mexican food and tchotchkeys.

Japanese Tea Gardens

San Antonio - Japanese Tea Gardens

The Japanese Tea Gardens are built in the pit of an abandoned stone quarry, they are quite small, but absolutely gorgeous. The water is a super healthy looking green (ahem), but the pathways and gardens are charming, the large pagoda is built of quarry stone and brings a little bit of Texas to traditional Japanese architecture.

San Antonio - Japanese Tea Gardens

McNay Art Museum

Between my conference ending and Blue Eyes’ flight landing, I spent a blissful afternoon wandering around the McNay Art Museum. Once a residential mansion, it’s owner left it to be a wonderful art museum with an expansive sculpture garden. This museum has a little bit of all the painters I love, and it was so fantastic to just wander through the rooms at my own pace, swooning over the pieces I loved without worrying that I was holding anyone up.

San Antonio - McNay Art Museum

The building has this lovely central courtyard smothered in jungle and pretty fountains. The museum was practically empty the day I was there, and I loved being able to just sit and detox a little bit.

San Antonio - McNay Art Museum

Again, with the Spanish tiles. I just adore them.

San Antonio Botanical Garden

Before Blue Eyes and I left for the airport we decided to squeeze in a little Texas BBQ and a stop at the Botanical Garden. They have extensive grounds and have divided it up into sections that represent all the different natural climates and geographic locations in Texas. So, there is the arid desert, and the humid jungle-y bits, and the plains parts, and the coast.

San Antonio - Botanical Gardens

So pretty!

San Antonio - Botanical Gardens

These tiny little orange blobs were one of my favorites, I can’t believe they come from purple flowers!

San Antonio - Botanical Gardens

Blue Eyes was content to wander with me for a few hours, taking ten million photos and trying to figure out how I could copy some of the fantastic cacti gardens for our yard.

Overall I really loved San Antonio, although I do not think I’d be able to stand the heat and humidity of the summer. But, it was a lush, gorgeous, interesting city to visit and we managed to squeeze in a bunch of mini adventures! More photos from San Antonio on Flickr.

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Charleston, South Carolina

Charleston, South Carolina

Charleston walk around historic downtown, pretty as a postcard. And freaking humid. There were crazy tropical storm warnings starting a few hours after I arrived. I did not feel one bit guilty about holing up in my hotel room after 8:00 pm with some Southern BBQ take-out, AC cranked up, and a book on my knees. Humidity is not my jam, walking around outside in heat and humidity makes me pretty cranky pretty fast. (Seriously, is it ever NOT humid in the south!? Inquiring minds would like to know.)

Charleston, South Carolina

Rainbow Row, a delightful block in the old historic district that looks like a sorbet buffet. Pink and mint and lavender and sky blue houses, one after another, with gorgeous flower boxes, charming front doors, and enviable iron scroll-work. And no less than three photographers using them as a backdrop for bridal shots.

Charleston, South Carolina

Wandering around the water front, watching dolphins and turtles play in the harbor, enjoying some gelato and people watching…it was such a wonderful evening. The Palmetto trees (palm trees for us plebian Westerners) lining the walks were swaying, there were fountains everywhere and moss growing on bricks and tree trunks. And, DOLPHINS in the water. I mean, take away the humidity, add my sweetheart and another scoop of gelato and it would have been down right perfect. (Yes, I realize the humidity is essential for the moss to grow everywhere, but man, can the dang weather stay out of my armpits and off my neck!?)

Most people rave about all the delicious things they ate in Charleston, and I had an amazing burrito-thing, some decent gelato, and some pretty great BBQ, but overall I wasn’t there to eat, but to wander. I wandered into restaurants when I got hungry and wandered back out again when I got antsy. I would go back to Charleston, but maybe in February or something when the weather is a little less soggy. I didn’t have enough time in two days to see all the things I wanted to see and photograph.

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Fort Sumter, Charleston, South Carolina

Fort Sumter, South Carolina

Fort Sumter, a tiny island fortress in Charleston Harbor, is the site where the Civil War began. The first shots fired in 1861 were by the Confederate army, they blasted Fort Sumter until it surrendered a day-and-a-half later. Over the next four years the fortress was reduced to rubble in battles and was not abandoned until Sherman marched his army through the South on his way to Atlanta in 1865.
Fort Sumter, South Carolina

I’ve read quite a bit about the South and the Civil War, but most of my knowledge is about the war in and around Virginia and Pennsylvania, what I know about the South is mostly gleaned Gone With the Wind. I loved being able to wander around the island, see the massive canon that were used to fire on ships, other islands, and the city of Charleston. I am still amazed at how large those guns are and their range is impressive.

Fort Sumter, South Carolina

After Fort Sumter was blown to bits, it was never rebuilt. What remains is the foundations of what used to be a several-stories high building that housed troops and supplies for weeks on end. It makes the broken walls and shattered bricks all the more eerie, imagining hundreds of men living and fighting in layers on top of you.

Fort Sumter, South Carolina

Fort Sumter, South Carolina

My visit at Fort Sumter was fairly short, but as there is very little to see–the whole island is really covered by the ruins of this fort and a small museum–I didn’t mind. A massive rain storm was rolling in and I was more than happy to get back on the ferry and back to (below sea-level) land before that tropical storm hit in full force. If you go, you have to buy your ferry tickets separately and probably in advance, they tend to fill up quickly via online sales, especially in peak tourist seasons.
Fort Sumter, South Carolina

Also, I think it’s time I refocus some of my Civil War reading on areas and battles farther south, I was embarrassed at how little I knew. (I’m a nerd. I know. It’s part of my charm.)

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Boone Hall Plantation, Charleston, South Carolina

Boone Hall

Earlier this fall I had a conference on the east coast and as a treat to myself I decided to go a little early and spend a few days in Charleston, South Carolina. Charleston has been on my list for ages, I’ve only heard wonderful things about the charm, the weather, the food, and the ambiance. I was only in town for two and a half days, but I managed to squeeze in plenty of mini adventures. I knew I wanted to tour an old plantation; there are a couple of large ones operating as farms and historical tourist destinations in and around Charleston. I read reviews from other bloggers (Janssen, Holly, and Kristin), and looked up where they were in relation to my hotel, but the deciding factor that made me choose Boone Hall was this gorgeous avenue of ancient oak trees leading up to the main house; three-quarters of a mile, lined with 100 trees.

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I mean….come on. This isn’t real, right?!

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The house is kind of your typical Georgian-columned antebellum affair, no photos allowed inside, minimal opportunity for touring the inside. But again, I did not come to see the house. (Actually, that’s only partially true. Once upon a time I was an architecture major and this is the exact kind of building that I would have gone ga-ga over. In fact, I think I designed an antebellum plantation house for a class project once. That being said, we were only allowed in the formal dining room, the library, and a screened in side-porch. The rest of the house was strictly off limits. I would have loved to see the kitchen and some of the upstairs bedrooms.)

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One of probably 15 remaining slave cabins on the property. Most slaves did not live in such structures, they lived in huts that were easily–and frequently–destroyed by tropical storms hitting the South Carolina coast. These brick cabins were reserved for the most high-ranking slaves (if that is even a thing) who worked in the house or did labor most essential to the immediate comfort and prestige of the Master. Field slaves lived in shacks and huts closer to the fields.

I took a ride around the plantation farm lands, they have a thriving local produce business in a number of different crops. The plantation also employs many local people to farm, give tours, and help maintain the property. My tour guide’s grandfather was a slave at Boone Hall and he said a number of the other plantation employees had ancestors who were slaves on this property. I am still thinking about that concept. As a white person from the Wild Wild West I certainly have very little perspective or right to an opinion about the moral ethics of this, but it struck me as something that should require additional thought. And I’ve been thinking about it for almost a month now, more so as I continued to read a number of first-person slave narratives.

In addition to the historical aspects, Boone Hall hosts a small cafe (meh), gift shop (hrmph), and number of festivals, carnivals, fairs, and other events throughout the year to celebrate various holidays, crop harvests, and other pieces of plantation life.

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I enjoyed my little meander around the plantation and the historical lessons from various guides, but what I truly came for were those gorgeous oak trees, huge and stately, dripping in Spanish moss.

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If I ever turn up missing, the first place you should probably look is the branches of these trees. Chances are more than likely that I’ve run away from Real Life and am camping out in their arms waiting for the storm to pass. (Seriously, SO swoony!)

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